Plumeria or Lei Flower is the most beautiful flower that you will find in Hawaii. It is used in most leis that are given to visitors as they arrive in Hawaii. It is, however, not native to Hawaii but to Mexico like the Monkey Pod Tree. The flowers are found in colors of white, yellow, pink, red, and multiple pastels. In Hawaii one of the best places to view plumeria is at the Koko Crater Botanical Garden – a 60-acre basin inside Koko Crater on the eastern end of the island of Oahu. 

Plumerias can grow to be large shrubs or even small trees in mild areas like Florida. In tropical regions, Plumeria may reach a height of 40 to 50 feet. Their widely spaced thick succulent branches are round or pointed, and have long leather, fleshy leaves in clusters near the branch tips. Leaves tend to fall in early 

Winter since they are sensitive to cold. Without their leaves and flowers, the trees are very ugly!

Fortunately, the large leathery leaves appear in Spring and are up to 20 inches long and 3 inches wide depending on species or selection. Medium green and oblong in shape, they are arranged alternately on the squat branches. The leaves cluster at the branch ends where they form the perfect backdrop for the plant’s feature attraction – deliciously fragrant, delicately sculpted flowers.

In  early Summer through the early Fall months, when very fragrant clusters of showy, waxy flowers appear the real reason for growing Plumerias become apparent. There is absolutely nothing like the sweet fragrance of Plumeria in flower, with fragrances of jasmine, citrus, spices, gardenia, and other indescribable scents. Flowering can last up to 3 months at a time producing new blooms everyday. Once picked, a bloom can last for several days without wilting if kept in water. These flowers are treasured by everyone, young and old and have become a symbol of Hawaii.

For those of us not living in Hawaii or Florida, Plumeria can be grown in containers, making beautiful potted plants for the patio. In milder climates, plumeria can be grown outdoors in the ground, where they make a small beautiful landscape tree. When the temperature, cools, they may be carefully dug up stored over winter in a heated basement or garage where temperatures are kept above freezing. Once the temperatures rise they can be brought out and planted again. We have been told that they will begin to grow as if nothing happened.

For container planting use a coarse, well draining potting soil, similar to what would be used for palm trees. You should consider using a large container on a plant dolly to make the job easier moving indoors as Winter approaches.

Water Plumerias deeply, but infrequently, let soil dry out somewhat before watering again. Begin to reduce the frequency of watering in mid-October, as the cool season approaches. Stop watering after the plant enters its ugly faze and has gone dormant. Resume watering in the Spring as new growth begins.

Plumerias should be fed with a high nitrogen fertilizer beginning in spring when growth begins. To encourage the most blooms, a switch to a high phosphorous fertilizer in early May and fertilize every 2 to 3 weeks through the end of August. Although the branches are muscular in appearance they tend to be weak and easily broken.

In addition to the seven or so Plumeria species, there are dozens of cultivars available that differ in flower color and size and all of them are spectacular. Some of the largest Plumeria collections are actually grown in cold northern climates in greenhouses. The flowers are truly gorgeous and well worth the extra effort.

 

Tips of the Month

Here is a simple how to list for making your own lei:

Supplies:

• Jar of Vaseline

• 3″ or 4″ Upholstery needle,

• 4 to 8 Pound Fishing Line or strong thread.

• 50 to 60 Plumeria Flowers

• One 1 Gallon Zip-lock bag

• Measuring Tape

1. Gather the flowers early in the morning and for best results use Plumeria flowers that have a thick waxy feel. Flowers that are thick and waxy will keep for two to three days.  

2. If you choose mixed colored flowers string them up in a pattern.

3. Measure and cut the string at about 48 inches.  

4. Thread the string through the needle’s eye, and either pull the string back or crimp it in place with pliers. Tie anything around the other end to keep the flowers from coming off.  

5. Dip the needle in the jar of Vaseline and thread the first flower going into the eye of the flower.  Slide each flower onto the string one at a time so as not to tear the flowers.  Re-dip the needle into the Vaseline as needed.

6 Once you’re finished stringing the flowers, cut the string from the needle and tie the ends.  Then cut off excess string from the knot area.  

7. Place the lei into the one gallon bag with a little water, close the zip-lock part way, then blow into the bag filling it full of air and zip it shut. 

8.  Store the lei in the refrigerator until you want to wear it.

 

Flower of the Month

Plumeria rubra ‘Lei Rainbow’ is a beautiful red to yellow tropical flowering  plant which can be grown in full sun to partial shade. While it is hardy to only zone 11, it can be easily grown as a container plant.

The flowers are very fragrant, attracting bees, butterflies, and even birds.  Ideal for cut flowers and of course leis.

 

Featured Web Site

The Dean Conklin Plumeria Grove is part of the Honolulu Botanical Gardens system.  It is located in  Koko Crater along the eastern side of Oahu. The plumeria trees surround the entrance to the garden and extend along the trail that lead to the crater. The plumeria  trees are planted close to each other which creates a beautiful rainbow effect when they are in bloom. The end of April appears to be a peak flowering time for these trees.  

My wife’s favorite tropical flower is the Heliconia bihai, better known as the ‘Lobster Claw’ which she first saw at the Allerton National Botanical Gardens on the island of Kauai during our 2005 trip to Ha-waii. This widely cultivated variety grows from 5 to 16 feet high in full sun to light shade. The ones we saw had 4 to 5 banana-like leaves up to 6 feet long, with beautiful, long lasting inflorescences composed of showy bracts which contain the true flowers.

The inflorescence consists of 7 to 12 bracts which are light-to dark red with a yellow edge and a green top. The Lobster Claw is at its best from April to December when it is in full bloom. Individual inflo-rescences last for many weeks, even when cut, making them important for the floral trade. Within the flowers are the pollen-producing stamens and the pollen-receptive stigma on a long style. The pollina-tion is done by hummingbirds and bats, shinny violet seeds form in the bracts.

While hardy to only zones 9-11 they can be grown inside in large containers in colder climates. Being a tropical plant it needs high humidity and a temperature range from 70-85 degrees. Heliconia are an ex-cellent choice for plants that are grown indoors in the Winter and moved outdoors for the Spring and Summer. They do require a well drained growing medium such as a cactus mix. The usual way to propagate is to plant rhizomes, which are horizontal underground stems, in a well draining soil with the very tip protruding out of the soil. Water thoroughly and let dry out somewhat be-tween watering. If kept too wet, there is a good chance they may rot.
Spent flower canes should be cut to the ground. Every few years when the growth slows down, dig the clump out, and divide it. This is also a good time to amend the soil before replanting. They are heavy feeders, feed regularly with palm fertilizer. Except for the fact that they are much more tropical, Helico-nias behave much like Cannas. Once we have mastered growing Sago Palms, Plumairas, and Taro we are going to give the Lobster Claw a try.


 

Tips of the Month

Heliconia rhizome planting instructions:

1. Upon receipt of rhizome or bare root plant, carefully unpack, plant quickly not to let rhizomes or roots dry out. Soak bottom 2/3 of rhizome or roots if visible for ½ hour at room temperature.
2. Plant your rhizome as soon as you receive it using a well draining soil mixture. Do not use soil from your back yard as heavy, dense soils will hold too much water and cause the rhizome to rot. It is very important that your soil is well draining.
3. After your first time watering we would not water in the future until we find that the surface soil is dry to the touch. It is very important that you do not keep the soil wet.
4. Heliconia like warm temperatures and bright light to grow strong. An ideal temperature would be 75 degrees with humidity over 50 percent.
5. The amount of light to provide full sun to 30 percent shade.
6. Fertilize at least once a month during growing season.
7. Daily misting of plants is beneficial if grown inside or in dry outdoor environment.

 

Flower of the Month

Heliconia bihai “Lobster claw” can be found abundantly in the tropical rain-forest of Hawaii growing to 16 feet tall and has up to five lancelet leaves, 6 feet long each. The bracts are light-to dark red with a yellow edge and a green top.


 

Web Site

The Allerton Estate and National Tropical Botanical Gardens on Kauai, Hawaii is a garden paradise extending over an area of more than 100 acres. The grounds were the mid-1800s summer cottage of Queen Emma, wife of King Kame-hameha IV, and the former home of Robert & John Allerton. They have been returned to their former glory, as have the surrounding stately gardens. The Allerton Estate is managed by the adjoining National Tropical Botanical Garden, a non-profit organization that conducts guided tours of the estate.

Those of you who have been following Yard Talk over the years know how special Christmas Time is at Martin’s Yard & Garden. It is a very special, magical time, a time for sharing with our friends and family old and new. 

Unfortunately, all good things come to an end. Cookies grow stale, the brightly decorated presents are opened, family and friends go home, and all the decorations come down. Even the Santa Bears go into hibernation until next season. A very depressing time around our household, especially for people young at heart like Marty and I.

Well, it does not have to be if you are lucky to be one of those people that still believe in the magic of having a real Christmas Tree. For you the fun is just beginning as you can now start decorating the tree all over again. I am not talking about covering it with Shamrocks or Easter Bunnies either!

Actually that is not such a bad idea but a more rewarding project would be to decorate the evergreen for our feathered friends. You do not have to use anything fancy, just edible.

Begin by driving a  4-6 foot metal pole into the ground then tie your old tree to it. Preferably, this should be done away from shrubs and trees that could  shelter animals which feed on birds such as cats and hawks. Once this is done, simply attach items which birds normally eat such as strung berries, suet cakes, fruit, or just spread peanut butter on the branches then sprinkle with sunflower seed. 

 Do not be afraid to experiment, believe me the birds will not care. Why not make it a family project and get everyone involved ?

 

Tips of the Month

Here are some of the wildlife decorations we have made through the years.

1. Cover pine cones with peanut butter and roll in birdseed, hang by a string.
2. Save your orange or grapefruit halves, fill with a suet birdseed mix and hang by a string .
3. String cherries, cranberries, or blueberries on a string and hang as garland.
4. Collect stale donuts from local bakers and hang from branches.
5. Hang chunks of bananas, pineapple, or apples on the limbs.
6. Popcorn can be strung on thread and draped over the tree.

Many companies such as Wildbirds Unlimited sell ready made decorations which can be purchased and hung on the evergreen. 

 

Flower of the Month

Abies concolor “Lowiana” White Fir

It is an attractive conifer and outstanding landscape plant. It has a formal pyramidal shape. Its silvery blue-green foliage makes it an ideal candidate for use as a specimen or accent plant in the landscape. The 1 1/2 inch long needles are slightly flattened, curve up from the stem, and are soft to the touch. Prefers a rich, moist soil with good drainage. Tolerates drought and heat better than most firs. Full sun is best, but will tolerate some shade. 


 

 Featured Web Site

National Wildlife Federation’s Backyard Wildlife Habitat’s web site offers a lot of exciting information not only on decorating for the birds but other wildlife as well. We encourage you to visit and learn more about how you can landscape your home and at the same time help the environment. This site is fun for the whole family, we only wish we had young ones to share it with.

Those of you who have been following Yard Talk over the years know how special Christmas Time is at Martin’s Yard & Garden. It is a very special, magical time, a time for sharing with our friends and family old and new. We welcome you once again into our home and gardens.

Our Christmas season begins a few weeks before Thanksgiving with Marty and I planning this seasons indoor and outdoor decorations. This is no easy task for over the years we have accumulated quite a collection of Christmas memorabilia. One that seems to multiply rapidly through the season, much like spearmint in the garden. Marty has an extensive collection of Dayton Hudson Santa Bears, with new ones arriving yearly. We both like Animated Holiday Figures, particularly Snowmen, which are displayed everywhere inside and out. This year we welcomed the Snow Triplets to our home along with Bernard, Brandon, and Bernadette.

The Friday after Thanksgiving we start putting up the outside decorations, this usually takes several days as it too seems to grow like weeds. Since I enjoy painting Christmas figures, much of the outside is centered around these creations. Of course, we also put up a few lights and garland.

The first Saturday after Thanksgiving is Christmas Cookie Day, a fun filled day involving anyone not afraid to measure, stir, bake and of course, eat a few cookies. Even Madison, our English Setter, gets involved, at least in the eating department. Since we usually bake between 900-1200 cookies, for friends and relatives, this happening lasts well into evening hours.

Between Outdoor Decorating and Cookie Day, Marty and I, choose the Christmas Tree. Some of our most cherished memories involve selecting just the right family Christmas Tree, by no means is this an easy task.  We have had Concolor Fir, Douglas Fir, Noble Fir, Fraser Fir, Balsam Fir, and White Pine.  The last two years we have had great luck with Black Hills Spruce which we highly recommend it for those looking for a more traditional look. 

We have to admit, we even have an artificial tree. This works perfectly for displaying Marty‘s extensive Christmas Egg Ornaments, many made by our son Geoff. The big advantage an artificial tree offers is that you can bend the branches to suit your needs, even to making it fit into a corner or flat against a wall. Besides I doubt if we could ever agree on two perfect trees!

Once the inside and out is decorated, cookies made and shared, and the trees are up, we put on some of our favorite Christmas Carols and wrap our family gifts. This is a time to kick back, relax with your loved ones, a time to count your blessings. Christmas is truly a time for sharing be it a simple cookie or song. We take comfort in the fact that in our own little way we bring joy into this world.

 

December Tip of the Month

While the best-selling trees are the Douglas Fir, Noble Fir, Fraser Fir, Balsam Fir, Virginia Fir, Black Hills Spruce, and White Pine, no one can pick the right tree for you! This is a very personal choice, a time to get the whole family involved. The best thing you do is just get out there, you need to look, touch, and smell the trees. A nation wide listing of many of these locations can be found at The Christmas Tree Network (http://www.christmas-tree.com/). 

Here are some tips for caring for your tree throughout the holiday season:

1. Select only the freshest, test for freshness by gently grasping a branch in your hand and pull it toward you. Very few needles should come off . Shake or bounce the tree on its stump. You should not see a large amount of green needles fall.
2. If not setting up right away, store the tree in water if possible but make sure that the water will not freeze around the stump, we learned this lesson the hard way. An unheated garage, tool shed, chicken coop, or other area out of the wind and cold is an ideal location. We have found spraying the tree with WiltPruf makes the tree stay fresh longer.
3. Cut off one half inch from the bottom of the trunk just before putting in the stand. 
4. Be warned, inspect the tree before bringing it indoors. Insects, rodents, and other pests can enter the home on the Christmas tree and emerge in the warm house.
5. Keep the tree’s stand full of water at all times, checking the water level twice a day. If the base dries out resin will form over the cut end and the tree will not be able to absorb water. The tree must then be taken down and a fresh cut made.
6. The stand you use should hold at least a gallon of water. Trees may use several quarts of water a day. 
7. Using plain tap water, slightly warm to the touch, is the best. 
8. Place the tree well away from heat registers, space heaters, fire places, wood stoves, televisions, computer monitors and other heat sources. 
9. Use UL approved electrical decorations and cords and unplug tree lights at night or while you are away. Miniature lights produce less heat and reduce the drying effect on the tree.
10. Take down the tree before it dries out. Many fresh cut trees, if properly cared for, will last at least five or six weeks before drying out.
11. Treatments are also available that can be sprayed on trees to reduce flammability. These contain borax or other flame retardants. 

Flower of the Month

Kalanchoe coccinea

Kalanchoe coccinea ’blossfeldiana’ 

It is one of the prettiest succulent flowering plants to be associated with the Christmas season. It’s long lasting flowers can be forced to bloom quite easily while the fleshy, wide, oval-shaped leaves are quite attractive.

Kalanchoes are easy to grow, requiring minimum care. This plant does need plenty of light and moisture to grow. Their root system is extremely sensitive and you should use clay pots to allow  for better aeration of the roots. You can ensure excellent drainage by placing pebbles at the bottom of the pot and use light soil containing lots of peat moss, perlite and sand. 

Kalanchoes can be made to flower, like Poinsettias, by adjusting the length of daylight. Short days of less than 12 hours over a period of 2 to 3 weeks will trigger the formation of flower buds. Once the flower buds are formed, the natural daylight regime can be resumed. 


 

Featured Web Site

The National Christmas Tree Association is a wonderful site with loads of information on Christmas Tree selection and care. We also find it to be a very fun site for the whole family. There just is no way to describe this site and do it justice, you need to visit it at least once during the holidays.

 

Book of the Month

Family Blessings by Fern Michael’s

Fern Michael’s uses her keen insight into the emotional bonds between family members and the passions that bring men and women together to create an enduring novel that celebrates love, family, and forgiveness. It is a good family book for the Holiday season.

Last Summer, while making a quick trip to Lowe’s to pick up some lumber, we happened to notice a display of small potted banana trees. We could not believe they were trying to sell these tropical plants in Michigan. What a joke, we thought, with our cool Spring weather much less our early Fall. There just was no way these tiny plants would ever have a chance to survive much less reach maturity.

Needless to say we ended up buying one. We planted it in what we call our “Tropical Garden” which consists of one Sago Palm and a few Taro plants. These we over-winter in the living-room in front of the French doors. In the Spring we bring them outside and plant them around a small water feature. Not a big problem, as they are only about the size of a large houseplant and require little care. Little did we know how this would change.

We started to worry a few weeks later when our “little banana plant” was almost three foot tall “and growing.” By September, we new we were in trouble as it was well over six foot tall “and growing.” In late October, when we were bringing in the taro and palm we resigned ourselves to the fact that our banana experiment was headed to a tragic end as it was now over eight foot “and growing.”

In November, with the first frost forecasted we said good bye to our friend the “ the little banana tree.” Alas we just could not do it, nightfall found us trying to fit a very large banana tree in the front door. The banana tree’s new home was next to the Sago Palm and Taro in front of the French doors, “ and was still growing,”

It is now late January and our little tree is “still growing.” Spring cannot come quick enough.

 Tips of the Month

We planted our banana tree on a lark! Looking back we have enjoyed every minute of it, even the mad dash to get it in before the first frost. You can practically see it grow as the leaves unfold. We are not sure what we will do with it next Fall as this unnamed specimen will be too big to bring in again, but we sure have enjoyed it.

That said, start by learning more about the available species than we did. A key factor to success when it comes to banana growing is to choose the right species. In our cold weather in Michigan you must choose a banana tree that will not get too big for your home.

The first priority to consider when growing banana is to use the proper soil. It is very important to use a well draining soil mixture Do not use heavy soils when growing banana such as potting soil, or soil from a yard. Plant the banana rhizome upright and be sure the roots are well covered and the rhizome has about 1/2 inch of the base covered with soil.

We advise that you water and fertilize banana at the same time using any type of balanced fertilizer to help grow banana. Bananas are heavy feeders so we suggest that you fertilize very lightly each time that you water. After your initial watering we would not water again until your soil is dry to a one inch depth. Please do not expect this to be a plant that you “water once a week”. Bananas like high humidity, hot, dry air will destroy the leaves.

Grow banana in bright light, 10-12 hours of light are ideal for most varieties. In northern areas grow bananas in containers remembering that they like to be root bound. Transplant to a larger container when your plant is quite crowded. Never plant it in a container without a drain hole.

Flower of the Month

Musa velutina “Pink Velvet Banana” is a hardy banana that is often found in the garden. Rarely exceeding six feet tall it produces many flower stalks near the top of the trunk, starting in late Summer. The colorful dark pink inflorescence and fuzzy pink fruits are great for flower arrangements. It likes rich soil and regular applications of fertilizer during the Spring and Summer. Keep well watered during hot periods. It prefers medium shade, but tolerates sun. Once established, they seem to be quite winter-hardy. Makes a nice focal point for a tropical or subtropical patio or courtyard. Excellent as a container plant.

Web Site

Plant Delights Nursery is a mail order firm specializing in unusual perennials. Their catalog features a wide variety of native perennials, as well as their Asian counterparts. The nursery opened in 1991 after years of plant collecting and selling at small back yard sales. The on-line catalog features well over 1000 different perennials. Many of the plants listed are their own introductions. Their plants are not just botanical novelties, but good noninvasive garden plants. We have never bought a bad plant from these people.

Whenever we travel we make it a point to visit as many botanical gardens and nature centers as possible. I suppose this is only natural considering our interest in plants and gardening. We are sure some of our friends and family think we are strange, but then most people have a mistaken impression of what botanical gardens really are.

Most people think of botanical gardens as outdoor museums where plants bear labels with unpronounceable names. Fortunately modern botanical gardens are fun places devoted to the culture, study, and exhibition of living plants in a park like setting. While committed to developing, documenting, verifying, maintaining, sharing, propagating, and disseminating their plant collections they also offer a wide variety of activities. Most offer not only areas to simply stroll and relax, but also gift shops, picnic areas, wedding and banquet facilities, restaurants, and cultural events.

One of our favorite Winter time botanical gardens is the Marie Selby Botanical Gardens located right in downtown Sarasota, Florida. Named after Marie Selby who donated her Sarasota Bay home and grounds “to provide enjoyment for all who visit the Gardens” it is a great place to get some quiet time and enjoy the natural beauty of Sarasota.

You can stroll through the Tropical Display House with orchids and colorful bromeliads, wander the garden pathway past plantings of bamboo, under

ancient banyans, and through the mangrove along Little Sarasota Bay with spectacular views of downtown. You will find more than 20 individual gardens, complete with waterfalls and terraced walkways. Special areas include the Butterfly Garden, Koi Pond, Cycad Garden, and Baywalk.

An exciting open-air exhibit of more than 20,000 colorful plants, including a living collection of more than 6,000 orchids, many collected in the wild from tropical rain forests, can be enjoyed by young and old. In fact, the Selby Gardens maintains one of the finest collections of species orchids in the world for use in its programs of research, education, and display. There are rotating exhibits of botanical art and photography in a 1934 restored mansion, a café under the banyans, and the Rainforest Store, with gifts and tropical plants.

 The Marie Selby Botanical Gardens is a must-see for those garden enthusiasts visiting the Sarasota area. The Gardens are open daily 10-5, except Christmas. Admission includes all outdoor gardens, Tropical Display House, Plant Shop, Book Shops, and the Tree lab. All areas of the Gardens are wheelchair accessible and wheelchairs are available at no extra charge.

 

Tips of the Month

Some other botanical gardens which we have enjoyed and highly recommend are:

The Allerton Estate and National Tropical Botanical Gardens on Kauai, Hawaii  is a garden paradise extending over an area of more than 100 acres. The grounds were the mid-1800s summer cottage of Queen Emma, wife of King Kamehameha IV, and the former home of Robert & John Allerton. They have been returned to their former glory, as have the surrounding stately gardens. The Allerton Estate is managed by the adjoining National Tropical Botanical Garden, a non-profit organization that conducts guided tours of the estate.

The Florida Botanical Gardens offers a unique blend of native and exotic plants displayed in both natural and formal gardens. The site also has abundant wildlife from rare birds to native alligators. This was my first introduction to  palm trees which I will never forget. This is a must see visit for those in the Clearwater/St Petersburg area.

Secluded between rugged cliffs dropping down to a peaceful valley floor outside of Poupoi, Hawaii, the McBryde National Botanical Garden is a treasure house of tropical flora. Explore the unique bio-diversity of native and exotic plants,and see rare and endangered Hawaiian species and learn about the efforts to save them. Stroll through McBryde Garden’s Bamboo Bridge section, visit the living laboratory where scientists are still discovering the secrets of these plants. 

 

Flower of the Month

Phoenix roebelenii ‘Pygmy Date Palm’

It is a small to medium sized palm to about 9 feet, although older plants can be quite tall. Has very attractive dark green feather leaves, and spined petioles. Not self cleaning, so old fronds need to be manually removed. Houseplant in bright light, container plant, or a palm for shady outdoor areas. Moderate growth rate, single trunk.

The stem is covered with old leaf bases and is topped with a dense head of rich green pinnate leaves that grow to about 4′ long. Delicate leaflets, arranged neatly along the upper length of the leaf lend the plant a very graceful aspect. Lower leaflets are modified into pointed 2-3″ spines that are very sharp.

Cream-colored flowers are held on short, 1′ infloresences (photo at right) and are followed by small black dates on the female plants (male flowers are borne on a separate plant). Although this palm is single-trunked it is most commonly container raised by nurseries in group of from 3 to 5 specimens. When grown like this the pygmy date palm makes an especially attractive specimen with the trunks tending to curve gracefully away from the center of the clump.

Pygmy date palm excels in containers of all kinds. Also looks great by patios and entry ways. Use clumps of these palms as specimens and to serve as focal point in a mass planting of annuals. Also nice combined with evergreen shrubs in a mixed hedge.


 

Web Site

Fontenelle Forest Nature Center in Bellevue, Nebraska offers visitors the opportunity to explore native plants and animals in much the same setting as out forefathers. Hiking their extensive trail system is like taking a step back in time. Our family spent many happy moments at this wonderful site.

Every gardener uses groundcovers in their landscapes even if they do not realize it. Often times groundcovers are overlooked, simply taken for granted as the green stuff growing on the hillside. When we do get around to discussing groundcovers, the first thing that pops into our minds are low spreading ivy, vinca minor, spreading junipers, and ajuga that we planted to hide something bad.

Ask a lawn maintenance company in our local to name a ground cover and he will state without hesitation “Kentucky Blue Grass.” Personally, I think groundcovers are any plant used to protect the soil by forming a dense protective blanket, if it is attractive so much the better. 

Well just what then is a groundcover and what does it do! The Melbourne Water District defines groundcover plants as:

“Goundcovers are tough, prostrate-growing plants that can help retain soil moisture, keep soil cool and suppress weeds.” 

While the Virgina Extension Service describes groundcover as:

“Groundcovers are low-growing plants that spread quickly to form a dense cover. Grass is the best known ground cover,but grass is not suited to all locations.”

Usually ground cover plants are utilized for, steep banks, shady areas under trees, under plantings in shrub borders and beds, where tree roots grow close to the surface and prevent grass from growing, and very wet or dry locations.

Groundcovers not only solve problems but also unify different components in the landscape. A low groundcover can provide a transition between the lawn and taller plants used in beds. They soften hardscapes such as walks, steps, and driveways. 

What plants you use are based on the conditions of the site and on what you like. The groundcovers you choose should require only minimal care. They should be able to depend mainly on the  rainfall for nourishment. An annual application of fertilizer may be given, but not necessary, to keep  the plants growing vigourously. Selected plantings should only be divided if they cease to grow well through overcrowding. The most common mistake made by the home gardener is in not using enough plants in the initial planting to adequately cover the area. Please do not skimp in this area to save money, it will only give you years of grief.

Groundcovers are merely another gardening tool, one when correctly used will, save you time and money, while adding to the overall beauty of your landscape.  Choose your planting wisely and they will provide years of carefree charm. Do not be afraid to experiment with different plants, all groundcover does not need to look like English Ivy.

 

Tips of the Month

The following are our favorite plants for use as groundcovers:

 Asarum europaeum ‘European Ginger’

This little creeper gives off a strong scent of ginger from its large fleshy tubers. Though it can be situated in borders, it comes into its own as a ground-core plant in moist and shady parts of the garden. The flowers are a deep red but even more important are the silky leaves.

Gazania rigens

This is a perennial grown as an annual that grows well in rock gardens or in other hot, dry areas. It forms a very low, ground-hugging ground cover, producing bright yellow, orange or red, daisy-like flowers. Flowers close at night and on very cloudy days. Plants grow 6 to 12-inches tall with blueish foliage. Do not plant in the partial shade as a full day’s sun is required for healthy plants.

Epimedium grandflorum ‘Tama No Genpei’ 
It emerges in spring with attractive purple tinted foliage. Epimediums will never be the traffic stoppers like roses, but these perennials are the unsung workhorses that tie the woodland garden together. Epimediums are easy to grow, tenacious perennials that provide a welcome first breath of spring with their airy flowers, then a solid backdrop of attractive foliage for the remainder of the growing season. 

Juniperus procumbens ‘Nana’
This dwarf juniper is especially good for groundcover or cascading over walls with its tight growth habit and bright green foliage. One of the most sought after low growing junipers with a very interesting growing habit. The very best of the low growing junipers.

Lavandula angustifoliia ‘Hidcote ‘
This is one of the most versatile herbs, inspiring poets, gardeners, artists, cooks and healers for hundreds of years. The scent of lavender has long been linked with romance, as Shakespeare’s writings exemplify. Aromatic, evergreen greyish foliage.  

Dennstaedtia punctilobula ‘Hay Scented Fern’
This is native to eastern North America is a popular garden fern being very adaptable and tolerant of many conditions. Fronds: lanceolate 3-5″ wide, twice to tri-pinnate, pinnae toothed with irregularly cut margins or teeth, scattered hairs on rachis and stipe

Flower of the Month

Polygonatum odoratum thunbergii Variegatum -Variegated Japanese Solomon’s Seal 

This is graceful shade plants that provide nice form and structure to the garden. These plants have long arching unbranched stems, they have nice clean, veined leaves with clusters of bell like greenish yellow to whitish yellow flowers hanging down from the stems at the leaf axis. In late summer and fall showy berries are produced that are blue to dark blue in color. 

The rhizomes of Solomon seals are white, long, thick and somewhat knobby, they usually grow about 2-4 inches underground in a horizontal angle to the surface. Most Solomon seals grow in spreading colonies that are easy to dig up and divide. 

 

Web Site of the Month

Collector’s Nursery is a retail mail order nursery with an interest in unique plant material. They specialize in dwarf and rare conifers and uncommon, choice perennials, with a strong emphasis on shade plants. Collector’s also have a wide offering of variegated plants, and an expanding selection of rare trees and shrubs. We propagate almost all of our own material from our large display garden. Some of our favorite genera are Epimedium, Tricyrtis, Corydalis, and Arisaema.

In Past Yard Talks we talked about the red slicing tomato such as Burpee’s Big Boy and Big Girl, Rutgers, and mammoth Beefsteak. These were the big round tomatoes of our youth, the pride and joy of our parents and grandparents garden.

We have also talked about my personal favorite, the cherry tomato. I eat more of these darn things then I care to admit. These are the tomatoes of salads. snacks, and preserves. Easy to grow and with a taste that cannot be beat by any modern plant.

Today we are going to talk about the tomato of our grandparents parents, the Heirloom Tomato. This variety of tomato is enjoying a well deserved comeback in the home garden. Maybe not as easy to grow as today’s hybrids but well worth the effort.

Heirloom tomatoes were bred for flavor, not resistance to disease, pests, heat, cold, or transport. Granted, some years, a heirloom variety was so unproductive it was not worth the space it took up in the garden. You can put months of tender care into a plant and do everything right, but a scorching hot day can cause all the blossoms to fall off. Last season’s cool wet weather completely wiped out our Brandywine crop.

This is why you do not find heirlooms in supermarkets. All tomatoes sold today are hybrids that have been bred to possess traits that favor growers rather than consumers, for example, tomatoes that ripen all at once so they can be harvested at one time or tomatoes with thick skins that are less likely to bruise.
Unfortunately, in developing all these traits, flavor has been overlooked.

An heirloom is generally a plant that’s survived the test of time and produced an abundance of tomatoes with great flavor. Most people consider a plant to be a heirloom if it is over 100 years old, although this is not a hard and fast rule.

The most popular heirloom variety is Brandywine, dating to 1885. Everyone who tastes it loves it’s superb flavor. The fruits have a very large beefsteak shape and grow on unusually upright, potato-leaved plants. We have grown this plant for years in our garden for it’s fine flavor. Make sure to plant several as it is not a big producer.

Some other varieties which we have grown and recommend are:

1. 

   Big Rainbow

   
   Big Rainbow which has flesh that is marbled with red in the bottom half of the fruit. It has a big, beefsteak shape with a very mild and sweet flavor.




2. 

   Cherokee Purple

   Cherokee Purple has a flavor that is rich and full, and often compared to Brandywine. The flesh is brick-red and very attractive sliced on a plate.




3. 

   Black Krim

   Black Krim is a medium-sized, very dark maroon beefsteak, with wonderfully rich flavor. This medium-sized, very dark maroon beefsteak, with wonderfully rich flavor is extremely tasty.




4. 

   Yellow Pear

   Yellow Pear has an enormous number of yellow bite-sized fruits in 75 days, indeterminate. This extremely old variety makes a vigourous plant, which bears enormous numbers of bright yellow, bite-sized fruit. The flavor is deliciously tangy. Perfect for summer party hors d’oeuvres.

These are but a few of the many heirloom varieties that have been passed down through generations of gardeners. We highly recommend you add a few heirlooms to your garden, they are well worth the effort.

 

Tomato Tips of the Month

My grandmother use to make the best tomato preserves that I just loved. Unfortunately, the recipe was lost when she passed over to the otherside. I had almost completely forgotten about it until I came across this recipe when researching for this Yard Talk. It sounds very close to what my grandmother made and I would like to pass it on to you.

Vine-Ripe Golden Tomato Marmalade

This delicious golden marmalade is an excellent accompaniment to any main course, from lamb chops to chicken to roast pork. Or if you wish, serve it alongside home-made corn bread for a great addition to any dinner menu. You may vary the type of yellow or orange tomato, as your garden dictates, and the results will be equally delicious, but I suggest using medium to large sized tomatoes rather than cherry tomatoes if you want to avoid considerable labor. This is not a heavily sugared marmalade and should be refrigerated to maintain its freshness.
• 6 pounds ripe yellow tomatoes
• 1 pound sugar
• 2 cinnamon sticks
• 1 star anise
• 3 cloves

With a sharp knife, score the skin of the tomatoes in an X on the blossom end. Place in boiling water for 15 to 20 seconds. (This may be done in batches) Plunge the tomatoes into a large bowl of iced water to stop the cooking process. Slip the peel off and remove any hard cores. Cut in half and squeeze out the seeds.

In a deep pot, combine the peeled tomatoes with the sugar, cinnamon, star anise, and cloves. Bring to a rolling boil then lower the heat to a simmer and cook for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, or until the tomatoes are falling apart and beginning to thicken. (This may take more time, depending upon the water content of the tomatoes.) Watch carefully to avoid scorching and stir often. Remove from heat when consistency is similar to a thick jam. Discard the cinnamon, star anise, and cloves. Store in airtight jars, refrigerated, for 2 to 3 weeks.

from James Waller, Executive Chef, Duck Club Restaurant, Monterey, California

 

Flower of the Month

Sweet Basil is a classic herb, used in tomato sauce, pesto and salads. Basil tastes great in tomato and pasta dishes but it also gives a sweet scented, minty aroma when crumbled over baked chicken, lamb, or fish. It blends well with garlic, thyme, and oregano. Crush dried leaves with your hand or in a mortar and pestle to release the herb’s flavor. Start early indoors or outdoors after danger of frost.


 

Web Site

The Burpee Company (http://www.burpee.com/) was started in 1876 and quickly became the leading seed producer to the home gardener. The site offers a broad range of information on gardening as well as a wide range of seeds and plants.

Here, in Southwestern Lower Michigan, we can honestly state that moss will grow anywhere, at any time, and with little help from the home gardener. In fact, moss is one of the most persistent and annoying weeds that occurs in home lawns. Peter Landschoot, associate professor of turfgrass science at Penn State says:

“Moss is an opportunistic plant that grows in bare soil or where grass is weak and thin. Once moss has invaded the lawn, grass will not spread into those areas.”

To control moss, you have to consider the reasons why it began to grow in your lawn. Moss only grows in areas of the lawn in which grass does not want to grow. This is areas of shade, low fertility or poorly drained soil. The moss does not kill the grass, the underlying growing conditions are so unfavorable that the grass simply dies out. Attempts to get rid of moss are rarely effective unless a dense, actively growing turf can take its place.

If heavy shade limits good turf growth, steps must be taken to correct the situation. This means removing some trees and shrubs to increase sunlight and air circulation. Rarely will just removing limbs and thinning out branches be enough to impact soil conditions.

To improve soil drainage, you must add large amounts of rich porous topsoil soil high in organic matter. This does not mean going to the local yard and garden store and picking up a few bags of topsoil. We are talking about adding 5-6 inches of new soil, this translates into truck loads not bag loads of soil. The soil adamants must then be worked into the existing loam to a depth of 10-12 inches.

Providing adequate sunlight and drainage can be both difficult and expensive. Low fertility, on the other hand, can usually be easily corrected. The first step in controlling moss is to test the soil for nutrient content and pH. Simple soil test kits are available at most lawn care centers or at your local state extension service at little cost. You can increase the fertility by applying a well balanced lawn fertilizer, such as 13-13-13, while pH can be adjusted with ground dolomite.

You can always kill moss by spraying it with copper sulfate or iron sulfate mixed 2 to 5 ounces to 4 gallons of water and applied at a ratio of 1 gallon per 250 square feet. Unfortunately, new moss will grow back in short order. Similarly, you can mechanically remove the moss and plant the area in sod. This method is a quick fix if you want to hide the problem for a season or two.

An alternative, where shade is quite heavy, is to plant a shade tolerant ground cover rather than grass. This does not correct the problem either but it will improve the appearance of the area. One of the most common uses of English Ivy is to cover shady hillsides or around the base of shallow rooted trees such as maple or white ash.

Another solution, catching on in this area, is instead of trying to get rid of moss and grow grass is to get rid of the grass and grow moss. The Japanese have been using moss for years in the lawn and garden. The appearance of green moss is both vibrant and revitalizing when used correctly. Gardening with moss adds a degree of serenity and timeless beauty to any garden.

While the year round beauty of moss is obvious, it is the resiliency, reduced maintenance, and cost effectiveness that make growing moss appealing. Moss can tolerate extremes in temperature and moisture levels. Even during periods with severe cold, moss, unlike grass, remains a dark green color. Excessive heat or lack of rainfall, also have no permanent effect. Best of all no mowing, fertilizing, watering, and dethatching which means more time and money for the gardener to spend elsewhere.

I know on the surface this does appear extreme, maybe even a little bit crazy but it does work. If you are like me, only growing grass for the green color, moss could be just the answer. Be a little crazy and give moss a try.

 

Tips of the Month

Here are some basic tips on growing moss in your lawn and garden. Moss is very easy to grow once you understand its culture. Since moss obtains all their nutrients from the air they require only shade, acidic soil, and adequate moisture to flourish. They need a firm soil, with a high clay content in a shady location. It is also imperative that the area in which moss will be grown be kept clear of leaves and other debris.

Selection of the location for the moss lawn or garden is by far the most important consideration you need to make. Most mosses prefer a medium to fairly dense shade. Direct afternoon sun should be avoided. Full sun locations will never work for moss as it likes growing on shady, wooded hillsides. Northern or eastern facing slopes in the woods or lawn are by far the best choice for growing moss.

Before utilizing moss as part of your shade gardening plans, the soil should be tested. The pH should be between 5.5 and 6.0, if necessary, the soil can easily be amended with liquid sulfur or aluminum sulfate to lower the pH.

Place the moss in contact with the soil as you would sod, press firmly into position but do not use a lawn roller. Water the moss regularly for the first three weeks and then gradually reduce watering

 

Flower of the Month

Fern Moss is often called Splendid Feather Moss, Step Moss, Stair Step Moss or Feather Moss. It is a very versatile, low growing moss with a high transplant success rate. It thrives in shade, but will also tolerate partial dappled sunlight. The color is medium green. There are several species of fern moss all are perennial, relatively large 4-6 inches long, robust, often occurring in wide loose patches. It is abundant and often dominant in coniferous forests, occurring on ledges and in rich humus or decaying wood. Fern moss is often found in cool, moist ravines and mountain woods of the East. It will dry up quickly when the canopy cover is not adequate to prevent high evaporation. Growth is better in undisturbed areas than disturbed areas.

 

Web Site

Moss Acres is a source for those interested in growing moss. They are located in the northeastern fringe of the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania on a 54 acre wooded hillside. Where, according to their web site, moss has been growing for millions of years. From this site they package and ship moss for gardening enthusiasts throughout the Eastern and Midwestern states. When it comes to knowledge and experience with growing moss in the landscape, Moss Acres are the best.
 

Book of the Month

Moss Gardening: Including Lichens, Liverworts, and Other Miniatures
by George Schenk ()This book, is great for those of us who like the green mosses and lichens of the outdoors. The descriptions are thorough and well illustrated with full color photographs moss being used in the garden.

We found the book fun to read as well as informative although it is geared toward the small container grower.

One of our special flowers for the sunny gardens are the common coneflower found throughout most of the United States. Coneflowers are found from the North Carolina Piedmont northward across the prairie states and into the Dakota Badlands, from the Mississippi wetlands to the Colorado Front Range mountian meadows, and even in the harsh high deserts of the Southwest. This native American perennial puts up with heat and humidity, infertile soil, and even drought. This common purple flower has been found in the flower garden for centuries.

Well just what is so special about a common purple flower which has been used in the garden since the dawn of gardening? Well for starters the coneflower has become anything but common nor does it only come in shades of purple. We now can choose from yellows, whites, oranges, reds, and many shades of purple. We see double, semi-double, and single flowering plants born on stems from knee height to over six feet tall. Big things have been happening to this “common” native wildflower in recent years.

We suggest trying Echinacea Sunset which has blooms 4 inches wide, with bright orange petals surrounding a large brown cone.  This long blooming flower carries 20-30 blooms at one time on thick stems ideal for cutting. This plant is 30 inches tall and wide, well-branched and sturdy, blooming from Summer well into Fall. A snap to grow, putting up with everything from heat and humidity to poor soil, cold winters, and drought. 

Echinacea Sunrise is another good choice with it’s 4½ to 5 inches rich yellow flowers with a sweet fragrance. As the blooms mature, they turn a darker shade of yellow. This is another coneflower with sturdy thick stems. Sunrise reaches 18 to 24 inches tall and 24 inches wide, well-branched and sturdy. The butterflies and bees will have a field day with the huge central cones. 

We also like Echinacea Primadonna which has a large central cone and tightly-packed white petals that really stand out in the garden. They also make fine bird attractors in the Fall, after the petals drop and the large seed-filled cones dry out on the plant. Primadonna , once established in your garden, it will put up with heat, humidity, cold, poor soil, and even drought. Very long-blooming, it is largely untroubled by pests or disease, and can be sheared back after flowering. 

Our last selection is Echinacea Fancy Frills flowers heavily well into Fall, flowers reach 3 to 5 inches wide and are semi- to fully double. Each bloom has a large, wide amber-brown central cone, surrounded by two to three rows of short, slender, very tightly-packed petals. It has a rich, sweet, and far stronger smell than most other coneflowers. Fancy Frills reaches about 30 inches high and wide and is great for cut flowers with it’s long thick stems.

All of the above coneflowers are currently being offered by Wayside gardens. We think that this is only the beginning, expect to see many new coneflowers being introduced in the near future.We strongly suggest that you give this plant a try in your gardens.

 

 

Tips of the Month

Here are some other coneflowers which we have tried in our gardens over the years:

1 Echinacea pallida ‘Pale Purple Coneflower’ which  blooms in early summer, 2-3 inch, pale-lavender, slender ray flowers droop gracefully on this lance-leaved prairie native. This is an elegant Coneflower that is more subtle than E. purpurea. Beautiful in the meadow garden with grasses and Yarrows. Native.

2. Echinacea paradoxa ‘Yellow Purple Coneflower’ is a prairie native that is a rare form of Echinacea with graceful, drooping rays of warm yellow. A toughie for full sun and lean soils; plenty of seeds for the birds.

3. Echinacea pupurea ‘Rubinstern’ is a medium tall coneflower with glowing red flowers with horizontal petals on robust plants. Stands out immediately when first seen. Beautiful in the meadow garden with grasses and Yarrows.

4. Echinacea purpurea ‘Art’s Pride’ is an amazing coneflower that comes from the breeding program of Dr. Jim Ault of the Chicago Botanic Garden. The lack of summer orange in the garden has been cured. Each two foot wide clump of slender green foliage is topped starting in late June and continuing through the summer with spikes of rustic-orange flowers.

5. Echinacea purpurea ‘Kims Knee-High Coneflower’ was introduced by Niche Gardens in Spring 1999, this compact purple coneflower has brilliant pink blooms, incredibly long season of bloom, and sturdy height, typically topping out a foot shorter than the species. We think the excellent qualities of the lovely coneflower will keep you coming back for more.

6. Echinacea purpurea ‘Kims Mop Head Coneflower’ is a single, white-flowered selection with a greenish disc, this sister to E. ‘Kim’s Knee High’. The “mop head” description refers to the petals that are fringy . This compact selection makes a great addition to the front of sunny borders, and glows along paths in the evening garden.

 7. Echinacea purpurea ‘Magnus Coneflower’  a native found in open woods and on prairies. It grows to 30 inches and has long stiff stems with one large cone with showy purple ray flowers. The flower has long rays that reflex downward somewhat with a cone that is hard and prickly. This is a much valued perennial for the garden loved by butterflies

8. Echinacea purpurea ‘Pale Purple  Coneflower’ has flexed, hot-pink petals that reach upward then slowly expand, widen and gracefully bend down. The cone becomes a very prominent, iridescent orange with red tips. An eye-catcher both from afar and on close inspection.

Further information on all of these coneflowers along with pictures can be found in our Plant Data Base at our web site at www.myg.info. We encourage you to visit our site  for lots of useful gardening information.

 

Flower of the Month

Echinacea purpurea

‘Fragrant Angel’ is a white coneflower that others can only aspire to. Grows just like ‘Ruby Giant’, with large, fragrant, and horizontal flowers with layered, overlapping petals and huge yellow cones. The strong branching stems extend the blooming season through summer and fall.


 

Web Site

Prairie Nursery (http://www.prairienursery.com/) is dedicated to bringing their customers quality plants and seeds, and sharing our knowledge of cultural and landscape uses of native plants.Since 1972 Prairie Nursery has been devoted to improving and rebuilding the environment by encouraging ecological gardening using native plants for soil, water, and habitat conservation. Their mission is to preserve native plants and animals by helping people to create attractive, non-polluting natural landscapes that can support a diversity of wildlife.

The act of ecological restoration with native plants provides us each with a spiritual connection to the earth.  It brings us closer to nature as we invite all forms of life into our world.  It is simply amazing to see the various butterflies, moths, birds, and other beautiful creatures that visit the native plants upon which they depend for sustenance and survival.