Posts Tagged ‘Weeds’

Fall Weeding of Plants

Icon Written by Geoff on August 1, 2002 – 5:04 pm


It is late summer, the peak of the gardening season when we should be out strolling around the yard, enjoying our flowers in bloom. However, what am I doing, weeding! Weeding becomes the main focus of the gardening this time of year. 

Why weed at all, one man’s weed is another man’s flower? While there is some truth in this, flower beds should be kept as weed free as possible because the weeds compete with the ornamental plants for both moisture and nutrients. Even cultivated plants can grow so vigorously they can become a problem, just look at the mint family. Weeds then are plants growing in the wrong place. 

If done at the right time and with practical tools, weeding does not have to be something as enjoyable as having poison ivy. It can be a time to relax and enjoy the outdoors. We like to weed, it gives us a time to see our gardens up close and enjoy the outdoors at a leisurely pace. 

The wrong time to weed is when the sun is high and the ground is dry. Choose to weed at cooler times of the day or on cloudy days for your own comfort. When the ground is damp, the weeds will come out much more easily too. Weed the day after watering or a rain, everything will be soft and the weeds will come out with their roots intact. 

Help yourself by making weeding as easy as possible. 

1. Pull up weeds before they go to seed and spread around the garden. 

2. Try to get the whole weed including the root. Younger weeds are easier to pull because they do not have an established root system. 

3. For tap roots like dandelions pull straight up with a little pressure on either side of the stem using a tool with small V-shaped end. 

4. For weeds with shallow invasive root systems, try scraping below the surface. 

5. Mulch between plants to help prevent weeds from establishing. 

6. When weeding, always make things as comfortable as possible, use a cushion or knee pads. 

A 2 – 3 inch layer of mulch will help reduce the amount of weeding needed and will keep the soil moist. Whether your preference is shredded bark, wood chips, or last fall’s leaves all will help. We suggest visiting Martin’s Yard & Garden’s Yard Talk Past Issue “Landscape Mulches” for more information on this subject. 

A landscape fabric can be used around perennial plantings. It will let water through but keep weeds down. To improve the appearance of the mat it should be covered with mulch. 

Weeds can be removed in various ways; however, nothing is more effective than the old-fashioned way of hand picking or hoeing. The tools we have found the most useful are:

1. The Cape Code Weeder 
– The Weeder is an ideal tool for all hand weeding and cultivation, easy to use and maintain. No gardener should go without one. 

2. Offset Blade Soil Knife 
– This tool is offset to give it extra digging power after slicing into soil. Cuts roots, too. You will find many uses for this in the garden. 

3. Pointed Push Hoe 
– This push/pull hoe is by far the easiest hoe to use, we would not know what to do without them. We go through several every season. 

Two good sources of high quality garden tools we have found are: The Garden Works and A M Leonard. Whenever possible we suggest purchasing English hand forged tools as they seem to last longer and hold an edge better. 

Sometimes a weed escapes your attention until it is quite large, when pulling them can result in severe disturbance to the roots of the plants around them. Try cutting it off at the base with pruners and treat any sprouts with Round Up. 

Some weeds that grow from rhizomes and seed freely are best treated with non-selective herbicide to kill the entire plant, roots and all. A non-selective herbicide such as Roundup and Finale can be bought already mixed in spray bottles. Another method, safer around ornamental plants is to brush it on. The Sideswipe Herbicide Applicator is an easy, environmentally sound way to control weeds even on the windiest day. 

Avoid using a hand cultivator or roto tilling for weed control, particularly when the area is infested with grasses because it merely chops up the roots. These pieces will grow and cause an even greater problem. Roto tilling also brings new weed seeds to the soil’s surface were they will quickly germinate. 

Not sure what is a weed or not? The New Jersey Agricultural Weed Gallery can help you there. The Weed Gallery, is a collection of photos and descriptions of agricultural weeds found in many states. 

If you are like us a few weeds are no big thing. Our best flowering goldenrod is a native that went unnoticed until it started to bloom. Now it holds a prized place in one of our sunny gardens. 

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Broadleaf Weed Control in Lawns

Icon Written by Geoff on May 1, 1999 – 5:56 pm

Brad Pedersen in Weed Control in Lawns and Other Turf says “Weeds are simple plants out of place.” We have often observed plants being cultivated in one section of the country while in other parts valiant efforts are being made to eradicate it. One man’s weed is another man’s orchid. So it is with weeds in the well-groomed Eurasian lawns. Weeds are easy to see because of their different texture and color. Some weeds, like dandelions and henbit, even put on a Spring floral show for us. 

The first step in controlling weeds in the lawn is to identify what types are present. There are many books, pamphlets, and even web sites such as Rutger University’s Weed Image Collection at to help you identify most lawn weeds. Another good source is your local County Extension Agent. Lawn weeds fall into two types, Grass Weeds such as crab grass and quack grass, and Broadleaf Weeds such as dandelions and plantain. Grass weeds are usually best treated with a preemergent herbicide while broadleaf weeds respond best to postemergent while cultural control can be used effectively on both. In this issue of Yard talk, we will be discussing broadleaf weed control. 

Broadleaf weeds occur naturally in all soils, their seeds can be viable for over 50 years and each plant produces thousands of these seeds. Everything we do in the lawn has the potential for introducing weeds. Broadleaf weeds can be annual or perennial and are extremely hardy. There are three types of controls available to the homeowner, postemergent herbicides, cultural control, or a combination of both. 

The preferred method of control is cultural. A dense, healthy, and vigorous growing turf are your best defense. Weed invasions only happen when there is an underlying turf problem such as when knotweed takes over when the lawn soil becomes compacted. Weeds can often be controlled by simple changing our maintenance practices such as: 

  • Mow at a minimum height of three inches.
  • Do not mow in hot dry weather.
  • Water one to three times a week.
  • Water to a depth of six inches- at least one inch of water a week.
  • Maintain the lawn’s proper pH.
  • Apply an adequate balanced fertilizer.
  • Aerate your lawn at least every three years.
  • Remove any thatch build up.
  • Thin overhanging trees and shrubs.
  • Regularly topseed any developing thin spots.

It is much easier to properly maintain a lawn than it is to try to get rid of broadleaf weeds. 

Postemergent herbicides are also used to control actively growing broadleaf weeds. Broadleaf herbicides available to the homeowner contain 2,4-D, Mecoprop, Dicamba, or a combination of the three. To be effective postemergent herbicides must be: 

  • Applied when the weeds are growing vigorously.
  • Not applied during dry conditions.
  • Applied when the temperature is between 60*F and 85*F.
  • Reapplied if it rains within 24 hours of application.
  • Applied in the early Fall or Summer.

In addition you do not want to: 

  • Water within 48 hours of application.
  • Mow within 24 hours of treatment.
  • Apply to newly sodded lawns.
  • Mow lawns within three days of application.

Above all else, you want to make sure you understand and follow the directions on the herbicide of your choice. If you are not sure of what you are doing, hire a professional. 

While we consider cultural control the best method, we realize herbicide application or a combination may be necessary. Use herbicides sparingly or even consider spot treatment of problem areas. The University of Delaware has an excellent pamphlet called Your Lawn’s 25 Worst Weed Enemies that can be viewed at that can help you match specific weeds with the best treatment. Again, if in doubt, ask a professional for help. 

The best choice is to keep those lawns healthy, dense, and vigorously growing so you do not have to worry about weeds. All the other choices involve a whole lot more work.

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